[center]Friese John F. - Farm Blacksmithing
http://www.aryanalibris.com/index.php?p ... cksmithing
A textbook and problem book for students in agricultural schools and colleges, technical schools, and for farmers[/center]
[justify]INTRODUCTION
A workshop on a farm is always a good sign. It is an indication that the farmer believes in having a place where he may profitably spend his time on stormy days that would otherwise be wasted. To such farmers, and their sons, this book is addressed, in the hope that they may learn from it some useful lessons in an easier way than by hard experience.
Several years ago a series of articles on "Farm Blacksmithing" appeared in Farm, Stock and Home. There was then, and has since been, some inquiry for a book embodying those articles and covering the subject of iron and steel work, or so much of it as the farm mechanic would need to know. Such a book has now been prepared, and the author has added to it such knowledge as he has gained by an experience of seven years in teaching blacksmithing to the farmer boys in the Minnesota School of Agriculture.
If the expert blacksmith complains that he finds nothing to interest him in the book, let him remember that it is not intended that he should. It was written for beginners.
The chapter on "Saw Filing" was written by Mr. William Eoss, Instructor in Carpentry at the School of Agriculture
FARM BLACKSMITHING
The thoughtful reader will at once recognize the difficulty of teaching even the elements of a trade on paper; but I hope by the aid of illustrations to make reasonably plain all the operations which enter into the work which the farm blacksmith will be called upon to do.
Nowadays a farm blacksmith shop may be very cheaply furnished with all the tools necessary for ordinary work, and the convenience - yes, the necessity - of a forge on every farm needs no argument.
The time that may often be saved by having at hand the means and skill to repair damages to machinery and tools is often a much more important matter than the cash saved by doing one's own work. What farmer has not often been obliged, by some slight breakage, to go to the town or village shop, - perhaps several miles away, - and there find that he must wait for several horses to be shod before his little job, (which he might have done himself if he had the proper tools), could be attended to by the blacksmith.
While it is true that a man may work for a lifetime at a blacksmith's forge and still have more to learn about the trade, it is also true that the essentials of the trade consist of only a few comparatively simple operations, which may be acquired by anyone who has mechanical ability and will give a little time and attention to the work. After this is done, skill will come with practice.
We are too apt to think that we cannot do a thing simply because we have never tried to do it, or anything like it.
"Our doubts are traitors; they make us lose the good we oft might win by fearing to attempt."
There is no good reason why every farmer who has any mechanical ability, cannot do nine-tenths of the work which he usually hires done by the blacksmith.
FURNISHING THE SHOP
In furnishing a shop, the first thing to be considered is the forge. There are good portable forges now on the market which may be had for a reasonable price. To anyone thinking of buying one of these I would say: Don't get one that is too small. One with a fire pan 18x24 inches and a 14-inch fan is small enough. The little bench forges are entirely too small for ordinary work.
A cheap forge which will answer every purpose of the ordinary farm shop may be made of wood, — simply a box filled with clay. It should be about three feet square and two and one-half feet high. A 36-inoh bellows may be had for $5, and a single nest tuyere iron for 35 cents. A tuyere iron which may be cleaned out from the bottom will cost about $2. A very cheap and good tuyere may be made of a piece of two-inch iron pipe extending entirely through the forge. Several small holes are drilled into the top side of the pipe for the blast, and a plug is fitted into the end opposite the bellows. When the pipe gets clogged with ashes the plug is pulled out, when a strong blast from the bellows will blow everything out. The picture on page 4 shows the style of forge in use at the School of Agriculture. It is simply a length of sewer pipe set on end and filled with clay. A hole is drilled through the back side for the horn of the bellows, and an ordinary single nest tuyere iron is used. The bellows is an ordinary old-fashioned one, 32 inches wide.
The most expensive part of the outfit will be the an- vil. It has always been supposed that the best anvils were those imported from England. They cost about 10 cents per pound. Very good American anvils can now be had for about 8 cents per pound. One weighing 80 to 100 pounds is none too large for a farmer's use. Don't make the mistake of getting a cast iron anvil that will not stand hard pounding. The same is true of the vise. Get one that you can pound on with- out fear of breaking. A wrought iron vise with steel jaws costs from $3.50 to $5, according to weight.
A machinist's hammer, shown at Fig. 1, weighing one and one-half pounds, will be found the most convenient size for common use, and a blacksmith's hand hammer weighing two and one-half pounds will be convenient to have at hand for heavier work. Each will cost about 50 cents. Tor sharpening plows a round-faced hammer should be used. More will be said on this subject in a later chapter. At the start the beginner will need a pair of plain tongs (Fig. 2) and a pair of bolt tongs (Fig. 3).[/justify]
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